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Crtd 05-09-01 Lastedit 14-08-20
Isamilo Life
[Related: Finding a room, Mwanza from above, Isamilo Shopping Centre]
The house in which Kees gave me a small room (click Finding a room) is almost at the top of the hill, 1230 m, that is some 110 m above the lake water level. My jogging circuit starts at Kees' house, descends almost to lake level, and then goes back up to my own place. Of course, my GPS has neatly plotted its elevation profile:
Go To: Satellite Picture of Jogging Track
If the last 500 m steep uphill (50 up) sometimes is too much
to bear, I can take a short cut. If,
however I
feel the courage to continue for the last affliction, the steep hill,
crowded
with very simple hut-like houses, children bringing water and cooking firewood, mothers starting to prepare food is
a concert of laughter about the crazy mzungu. All children say "shikamoo",
hoping the mzungu has breath left for "marahaba", but he hasn't. In
one of the early reconnaissance trips, my jogging was arrested at the hill top
football field, where a large crowd watched well organized village youngsters
playing on a field littered will very big rocks peeping out of the ground with
there ground surfaces. I was loudly invited to join. Under loud cheering, I gave
my GPS to the referee, and under even louder cheering I took off my shirt,
since I was to join the naked torso team. Luckily I scored the only field goal
of the match, a quite well directed 20 meter ground shot from a high and
descending pass, taken on the back of the forefoot. That made us equal. In a similar shot
I hit the post's outside. In the penalty shoot out most
penalties are held, mine also, since the goal is less than half the regular one.
On exit I taught my team (average age 18, exactly a third of mine, to correctly
pronounce "van Nistelrooy". They acquire shamefully incorrect pronunciations from
British TV that, as a Dutchman, having lived a few miles from the village Nistelrooy for many years, I feel my duty to correct. On a later occasion the top-hill flag was not reachable because a crowd was
dancing on drums and indingidi, an African sisal snared violin with a little
drum as resonance box. I clocked after counting the seconds it would have taken
me to reach my finish flag and was encouraged by a man to join the dancing, a
girl put herself before me, swinging. I joined, but the noise arising was so
loud that she got scared and fled. I thought I 'd done my duty but was
grabbed once more by a woman at my hands. No other choice than dance. But she
also quickly finished her desire for the general attention. I was grabbed once
more, but my running sweat was slippery enough to escape under big smiles of the
entire village. Lately, I got
running company by a younger mzungu, more than 30%
lighter than me and more than 20% faster even though I broke my personal local track records since I ran
while seeing his back quickly become tinier.
After running, it is time for the well-deserved beer (the excellent brand:
"Kilimanjaro"), and to turn on the lights. This, of course, if there
is no power cut. The dark falls as a stone on the
equator. We also experience peak
voltage dips at cooking time (there is a lot of electric cooking here) at which
out TL tubes refuse. During power cuts I grind my coffee with a hammer in
a cup (didn't break one yet) and boil on my high school
paraffin burner that was
waiting for over 25 years to be used again.
My two house mates, Tanzanian brothers in law of Kees, do the cooking, since I fear they do not like
my food. I limit myself to cleaning the dishes, the kitchen and sweeping the
house's concrete floors. It is dry season, so it is dusty, and a house here has no glass window
panes but only anti burglary steel bars and anti mosquito wire netting. We do all the
house work ourselves because we all prefer to feel sure that any thief must be
one of
us.
Photo: Sato (Tilapia): made by my house mates, left: with rice, right: with plantain (a not sweet banana type, "matoke", Kiswahili "ndizi" ). Background: mninga wood (like what is still hoped to be my dhow).
My English is a useful exercise to my house mates.
Meanwhile I use dinner time to check whether I correctly digested my book's Kiswahili teachings of the day.
At home I do mainly Kiswahili now but another fun thing is what seems to be a new development in my brain. I took my electrical piano here. On it, I used to be unable to find the harmonies, thus the accompaniment, of jazz standards without consulting books containing them in written chord symbols. Now, to my delight, I start to find them with my ears, so no more of those hated books on my piano. I am just listening to what I am playing and find my way through many jazz standards. Why did my brain wait with this delightful development until now, well after I became 54? I do not spend much time on that question but simply enjoy finding my harmonic way on the piano with my ears only, just as I always could with melodies, in all keys. Would I have acquired this capacity at sixteen, I would now have been a poor bar pianist in some Amsterdam hotels instead of a rich mzungu without money at the Greatest Lake of Africa. Who knows just as happy.
Photo above: Tropical rain shower, our garden from the kitchen door, good for our flowers, even arousing virile instincts to the dweller (Photo below)
I am now a full member of the
Mwanza Yacht Club. My payment of my entry fee and one year of membership caused great enthusiasm. I got several beers from the treasurer that evening. The mooring of my dhow will be free. "A fringe benefit of membership", I understood though not only the treasurer had some articulation problems meanwhile, so I started to suspect many drinks were on the now suddenly well-to-do yacht club. The club yard has some Lasers and Laser sized small polyester dinghies on display, eleven in total, four of them are club boats. I was cordially invited to come and sail one. The first time I came, the "beach boy" was not around. The second time he "would be around on Wednesday". On Wednesday, I found him with some effort. He walked slowly to the boats. We inspected all 11 hulls. All of them had leaks to big to allow for keeping them above the water for more than 5 minutes. I made some proposals how to repair some of them and threw my preparedness to volunteer as a club sailing instructor out as a carrot. I do, however, presume that the story of the Mwanza Yacht Club Lasers (as well as of the money I brought in) ends right here .
Photo: Kitchen breakfast view at Isamilo
Finally, after nine years of Africa experience without any any dangerous wildlife encounter, not even when a few years ago I passed on my motorcycle a group of lions at 80 m, it happened:
Photo: My first dangerous African wildlife encounter
a scorpion in the kitchen sink
Photo: my motorcycle is a great todler attraction
Near my house is a restaurant with a very good western menu. Kivuli Kitchen (KK). An NGO supports am all young women group to run it with the training by a young Austrian woman. In the restaurant, they run a shop with local art and textiles.
Photo: The KK waitresses dress for ...., author ordered a shirt suitable for restaurant visits on these days.
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Photo: The KK waitresses dress for ...., author ordered a shirt suitable for restaurant visits on these days, which he prefers due to his preference of the cloth design.
[Related: Finding a room, Mwanza from above, Isamilo Shopping Centre]
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