Crtd 07-10-05 Lastedit 16-01-20
Boat Life
The heavy duties of a captain etc.
Photo: captain, eyes still in rising start up, receives his morning coffee
Sunrise:
If moored: crew jumps off bed, takes toothbrush, goes outside. Look at
clouds and wind first, then starts brushing teeth. Put pumps on for bailing, Doi
makes captain's wake up coffee. Captain hears coffee machine, waits five minutes
then pulls himself upright with half closed eyes and gets his coffee. Philemon
starts to brush the entire ship like a horse, whistling and singing. Doi fills a
bucket with water and soap, and soaks dirty clothes.
If on travel: crew: checks banana leaf binding of sail, lifts anchors (often with
toothbrush in mouth), prepare folmali for lifting. Captain: makes his own coffee, Doi turns the winch lifting
the sail, while captain hold the "mains" halyard outside, and shouts SAWA! to Doi when
the gaff is up.
Photo left: Philemon, singing and whistling, cleaning even the stones. For defense we have
"soft" stones
starboard and the hard ones port. This is, according to Philemon for
psychological warfare: when we throw a stone we shout that this is a soft one,
and ask whether they would like to receive a hard one. We had no practice yet.
Photo right: pre breakfast frenzy part two: Doi washing, Philemon dissatisfied
with anchoring
Sailing:
Philemon is an excellent sailor. He has a good sense for possible chances and
dangers considering certain actions. Moreover, he likes to get
everything going, tell the boys what to do and how to do it. I could, in
principle limit myself to determining the destination. At times when Philemon prefers
a different option then me, concerning timing, direction or maneuvering, his option is
never unacceptable. If he likes, I let him go his way. Only seldom I see
something or have an idea he did not have
himself. Usually he is convinced immediately. When not and I insist to do
something my way, it is hard to decide who was right, since this is about risks
under two options, neither which realize.
There are, however some mzungu gadgets that one feels I should operate: outboard
engine, control of the electricity system and batteries, and GPS computer
navigation. The latter he only needs outside the Tanzania coast area which is
only 40% of Lake Victoria's coast line. On the other 60% of the coast line the
computer navigation is ceremonial. I operated the winch for a long time
personally, but later Doi applied for the actual turning of the handle and now I
am holding the "mains", the line which keeps the over 200 kg gaff&sail up if the
winch wire breaks (this actually happened
on our way to Majita).
The rest of the captain's task is to keep looking around for possible technical
defects and shooting of non standard troubles, though also there, Philemon often
is first. This is not to my displeasure. I found that the actual sailing jobs
that as a boy I loved to do, like adjusting sails, steering, mooring are boring
me quickly. On sail, in the cool periods, early morning and sunset, one
finds me on the deck. The rest of the day I am often inside, reading and
writing, every now and then coming out for a look, a chat, a change of course or
a maneuver.
Photo: work desk with mzungu gadgets, laptop, connected to GPS, showing map with route, current position, distance to target, Estimated Time of Arrival (ETA), speed, etc. (Go To: PrintScreen)
Leisure
Philemon: sleeping, telling stories very elaborately in a theatrical style,
playing each role with different voice and gestures appropriate to person and
situation, reading lots, among which: Machiavelli, Guide to East Africa, History
of Africa, copying data, pictures and maps to teach his children.
Doi: sleeping, Bible (New Testament only, in Swahili), his English exercise
books.
Kos: sleeping, Bible (New Testament only, in Swahili)
Captain: sleeping,
Bert Tells
What He Reads, Writing
greetings-web pages
Photo: temperature experience keeps differing widely among us (left: Kos using my old polo as tent)
Other meals
Crew eats fish and maize porridge only, sometimes with tomatoes. They are
cooking in turn. I join the meal symbolically, since they indicate they
appreciate that very much. But my staple food is not maize porridge but bread,
rice and pasta. Cheese it hard to find except in Jinja, Entebbe, Bukoba and
Mwanza. To cover my pasta's I have a box of tin cans.
Public Relations
As reported, we have public relations issues when we moor somewhere longer
than one night. Charity and tolerance is, to say the least, not in the African's
blood. Suspicions are raised, money is smelled, curiosity peers and
indignation (for us not reporting officially and respectfully) threatens . In
short: we are a red alert allurement for the African adult male
hunter-predator instinct. Crew is in the front line.
Tribal solidarity is an important cooler, so at Ukurewe Doi is our man, at
Majita: Philemon and at Bumbiri (Dale, mzungu) I am the one. Those are the easy
ones. Other places can give more troubles (Rubondo,
Kahunda). Here, the
greedy "leaders" try to overrule the first line and get at the mzungu. Then I am
in the role of important man, laughing relaxed, to show he is not fearing and
has the money to get them in jail even for something they've never done, if
necessary switch to a good blast (Jinja,
Kahunda) then, if
totally unavoidable because of both gun presence and threat: pay (Rubondo).
Try never to pay: your reputation travels in front of you and you will be a
popular attraction and sitting duck for all sorts of officials and "officials"!
Our balance up to now is
papers asked | money asked | paper given | |
Bumbiri | No | No | No |
Rubondo | No | Yes, paid (guns) | Yes |
Kahunda | Yes | Yes, refused (no guns) | No |
Kagunguli | No | No | Yes |
Mutiro | Yes | No | No |
Go To: Full list of
all my standoffs with African officials (juicy for westerners!)
Go To: The standoff language used by expert Africa explorer
Henri Morton Stanley (Bumbiri
1875, not less juicy).
Shopping:
Captain: gives money
Crew: going out, buying and bringing to the boat
Everywhere: fresh water (off shore you drink straight from the lake, on
approach to shore you fill your jerry cans),
Every village: maize flower, tomatoes, tea, eggs, detergents, soap,
matches, cooking oil
Bigger village; on market days smaller village: Bread, Blue Band, soda,
beer, kerosene
Towns: milk powder, tin cans, peanut butter, petrol
Towns when you are lucky: roasted whole Coffee beans, cheese
Mwanza only: gas bottles