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Crtd 07-09-09 Lastedit 15-09-14
Bukoba: summary
(Go to: complete version)
070909 (continued, Go To: start of day) At approach, we expect some dangerous rocks starboard, but we sight them port
Photo: passing some non beaconed rocks - near the harbour!! - at 300 m the opposite side of our estimation
After an hour, relaxing on the beach with a beer, some boys
row to my dhow with an inflatable. They climb, though I feel sure Philemon had asked them not to
and must have indicated the owner on the beach, so this must be Tanzania police.
And is was, even former staff members in the police pirate nest of
"Mr. Malima and his camp" at the time of their kidnap for ransom of my
dhow (story
in details).
I asked Philemon whether our inflatable chimplets could testify in bringing Malima and the beating
officer to jail, but he was not ambitious to hunt them down.
Photo: After an hour, relaxing on the beach with a beer...
070910
The next morning, going to the shore for immigration and customs I found a
fat chimp with two assistants as the only guests of the restaurant's beach, not
drinking anything. One of his assistants approached me: his boss wanted to talk
to me. Lake safety officers on the hunt for money.
After some counter intimidation with friendly smile, they resign.
I go to the town centre 3 km up country. No motorcycle taxis, nor the familiar bicycle taxi:
prohibited by government on request the car taxi mafia.
Photo: Left: The greedy chimps' fleet seriously idling despite prohibition, Right: motorcycle and bicycle taxis prohited: Bukoba walks
Walking, hence, in long rows of pedestrians past long rows of
taxis with sleeping drivers, I reach Bukoba's immigration office. After serious grilling with repeated questions about business, the most serious
crime in Tanzania, they give up claims for other charges and go for the $50/= only for my mzungu visa (East Africans cross their
borders officially free but might have to pay up to $5/= to avoid getting
trouble): "Give the money!"
We reach the phase of stamping the passports. Bukoba is not a regular place
to enter Tanzania, neither over land nor over the lake, nor by air, the whole so
the operation of finding the stamp etc is quite something.
Bukoba has 2 ATM's, both taking my VISA, but one sports a 2 hour queue, the
other is out of order.
At the internet cafe speed up to 1.4 KB (WOOPIE!) I download my virus updates. 2
hours.
I walk to customs. The 2 hour queue bank's ATM is now reported "off line". I reach the customs.
The harbour
inspector insists on
full inspection of the vessel. I decide to take them immediately: the inspector
with his assistant.
William and Mary (tourist office managers) follow us. It is the
time we had agreed for a drink on the dhow.
I070911
At breakfast we discuss Bukoba chimp culture and Philemon
tells some more (Philemon
hospital,
Philemon ferry), after which I take a good swim and he thoroughly brushes
his teeth.
09:00
Blue bank: ATM spits out TSh 100.000= euro 58. I enter the bank. That is not
easy because its half tennis court sized surface is crowded like a Tokyo rush
hour subway station. Maximum is reported 300.000 per transaction but you can
repeat immediately. Back out. The line is too long for the experiment.
Philemon on the phone: the lake safety chimps have returned.
They want the papers.
Tell them immigration and customs wanted all copies, I will make new ones
and bring them before 12:00.
Chimps have either no time for you, or they stalk
you all day.
Back to dhow, I start the generator to print new copies, send Philemon with them to
the safety chimps, finally 12:00 I have bread and time for
breakfast.
Back to town with Doi: shopping.
15:00 The blue bank's ATM spits out TSh 330.000 = almost 200 euro
I walk to the customs office.
When do you leave, Sir?
I am waiting for decisions of tourist office staff wishing to join me, but I
guess Thursday.
Good. Because we are now making you final clearing. You can collect it tomorrow
around 11:00.
Thank you, I'll be there!
16:21 Blue bank's ATM spits out another TSh 200.000 = 120 euro
I070912
10:00 To town with Philemon, but first we take a picture:
Photo: Mr. Malima's patrol boat, the location of Philemon's beating (story),
in Bukoba harbour
The clearing my inspector had made turned out to be an export clearing. I happily play the game since this would save me the customs chimps' ordeal on leave at Musoma!
11:30 blue bank ATM spits out TSh 600 000 = 350 euro. Good boy, good boy...Back to the dhow. Dale appears with his
water plane, flies in a short curve over our boat, we wave, and he is off to his
island. A few hours later I call him and he will be very happy to receive us.
Philemon returns from town, had sighted Mr. Malima, the pirate chief who
kidnapped our dhow last year! (story)
Our Bumbiri leg passengers list (to Dale) now features Mary,
Dutch volunteers Michael and Elze, and a Tanzanian registered by Mary.
Mary wants to postpone the trip to Friday. Though I have seen enough of Bukoba, I resign.
I070912
SMS from Dom: How are you? Past Bukoba? To Dom: Day 3 Buk lots of chimps trying our pockets, OK now, tomorrow Dale.
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